MÜNN and TOTON were announced as the menswear and womenswear winners, respectively, of the 2016/17 International Woolmark Prize Asia regional final.
国际羊毛局(The Woolmark Company)宣布MÜNN及 TOTON分别获得2016/17国际羊毛标志大奖赛亚洲赛区男女装组冠军。
Christopher Raeburn- Founder and Creative Director, Christopher Raeburn; Juun.J - Creative Director, Juun.J; Cui Dan - Fashion Director, GQ China and Chief Editor, GQ Style China; Fiona Kotur - Creative Director and CEO of KOTUR; and Priscilla I’Anson - Fashion Stylist and Consultant selected the winners at an awards event held in Hong Kong.
本次大赛在香港举行,获胜者由极具声望的评审团臻选而出。评审包括Christopher Raeburn品牌创始人及创意总监Christopher Raeburn、Juun.J品牌创意总监Juun.J、《GQ智族》时装总监及GQ Style中国版执行主编崔丹、KOTUR创意总监及首席执行官Fiona Kotur,以及时装造型师兼顾问Priscilla I ‘Anson。
Known for his use of interesting silhouettes and unexpected details and patterns, Korean designer Hyun-min Han of MÜNN presented a multi-layered menswear look with relaxed tailored structures created from a combination of woven wool, selvedge detail, raw edges and cable-knitted wool. The complete outfit included a long wool coat, knitted turtleneck and wide wool trousers, and was paired with a cable-knit muffler and woven wool bucket bag.
MÜNN的韩国设计师Hyun-min Han善于运用趣味十足的廓形及出人意料的细节和图案设计其系列。多层次的男装造型展示宽身的剪裁结构,并由编织毛线、布边细节、毛边和羊毛扭花针织结合而成。本次展示的作品包括羊毛长大衣、针织高领衫和宽松羊毛裤,并配以粗棒扭花编织的围巾和羊毛编织桶型手袋。
“Hyun-min presented a look that was modern and unique,” stated Juun. J. “He incorporated his brand identity and vision strongly into Merino wool, and the final result was one that is international, striking and sophisticated with a casual twist. I particularly liked the delicate selvedge detail that was woven into his coat and trousers, juxtaposed against the chunky knit of the sweater and scarf.”
评审Juun. J表示:“Hyun-min 展示出一个现代、独特的作品,他以美丽诺羊毛为元素,将他的品牌特性和远见展现于人前,而最终产生一个国际化、引人注目和复杂的配搭。我特别喜欢他的外衣和裤子的布边细节,与毛衣和围巾的粗厚针织相映成趣。”
Founded in 2012, Toton Januar and his business partner Haryo Balitar built TOTON on the foundation of Indonesian heritage, celebrating craftsmanship and re-contextualizing traditions. Their winning design explored the versatility of Australian Merino wool by developing and manipulating the fibre with traditional Indonesian methods in order to produce exotically embroidered and textured fabrics, as well as a men’s tailoring-inspired look that would suit southeast Asian climates and support local hand-crafting techniques.
Toton Januar与他的生意伙伴Haryo Balitar于2012年成立了TOTON,品牌基于印度尼西亚的文化遗产,颂扬手工艺和重新诠释传统。他们的获奖设计凸显了澳大利亚美丽诺羊毛的可塑性,透过传统印度尼西亚工艺开发及深入挖掘美丽诺羊毛,制作出富异国情调的刺绣和充满质感的面料,此种面料非常适合东南亚气候,同时也对传承当地手工技艺做出了贡献。
“TOTON achieved a great balance between genuine wool innovation and displaying business acumen,” Christopher Raeburn commented. He added: “The techniques and textures showcased by TOTON made us look at wool in a new way, it was contemporary and relevant; they have the complete package and I’m very excited to see how their collection will develop for the finals.”
评审Christopher Raeburn说:“TOTON的成功在于羊毛创意和商业考虑之间的平衡,TOTON展示的技术和纹理让我们对羊毛的演变有了新的观感,当中充满现代感和相联性。他们各方面均杰出优异,我很期待在总决赛看到他们作品的演变。”
“I am so happy and honoured to have won in the menswear category for the Asia regional of the 2016/17 International Woolmark Prize,” said menswear designer Hyun-min. “To have a taste of participating in such a prestigious global competition, learning so much about wool and sharing what MÜNN represents to a worldwide audience, has made this an unforgettable experience.”
男装组冠军设计师Hyun-min表示:“我非常高兴,也非常荣幸获得2016/17国际羊毛标志大奖亚洲赛区男装组冠军,能参与这样一个著名的全球性比赛,学习到关于羊毛的知识,并向全世界观众分享MÜNN的设计理念,是一次难忘的经历。”
“This is simply unreal,” said Toton Januar after his win. “It’s the first time that Indonesian designers have participated in the International Woolmark Prize, and it means so much to us. We were so excited to explore and manipulate wool with traditional Indonesian craftsmanship, and give greater meaning to ‘people making things for people.” His business partner Haryo Balitar agrees: “We want to make sure we support and promote the unique traditions and age-old techniques of our people.”
女装组冠军Toton Januar胜出后表示:“这感觉很不真实。这是第一次有印度尼西亚设计师参加国际羊毛标志大奖赛,胜利对意义重大。以印尼传统手工艺探索羊毛,我们深感兴奋,并对‘手工制作’赋予更大意义。”他的合作伙伴Haryo Balitar对此表示赞同:“我们要支持并推广印尼独特的传统和历史悠久的技艺。”
Chosen from amongst the most promising fashion design talents from Asia, both winners gain a financial contribution of AU$50,000, plus the opportunity to represent Asia and compete in the prestigious international final. In addition, each winner will receive mentoring support from a global panel of experts along with being granted a Woolmark licence.
从亚洲一众新晋的时装设计师中决出的男女装组冠军分别获得5万澳元奖金,并将代表亚洲角逐全球总决赛。除此以外,每位冠军得主均可获得全球评审团的专业指导及Woolmark特许权企业认证权益。
For the next six-to-seven months, the winning designers will be required to develop a capsule collection in Merino wool, to be showcased at one of two extraordinary events that will highlight the six menswear finalists and six womenswear finalists selected from across the globe. The final for menswear will be held on schedule during London Collections Men and the womenswear final will be held in Paris, both in January 2017.
在未来六至七个月中,区域决赛的获胜者将设计一个美丽诺羊毛的胶囊系列,并在最终的两场全球总决赛中呈现,男女装组总决赛将会分别展出六位男装组和六位女装组选手的作品。男装组决赛将于伦敦男装时装周期间上演,而女装组决赛将会登陆巴黎,两者均于2017年1月举行。
The winners of the menswear and womenswear global finals will receive a further AU$100,000 to assist with fabric sourcing and marketing of their collection, as well as mentoring from industry experts. In addition, both international winners will have the opportunity to have their collection distributed through the prize’s prestigious international retail partner network including Harvey Nichols in the UK, David Jones in Australia, Boutique 1 in the UAE, Verso in Belgium, LECLAIREUR in Paris, Boon the Shop in South Korea, The Papillion in Indonesia and online through mytheresa.com (womenswear) and MATCHESFASHION.COM (menswear).
赢得男装组和女装组最终大奖的两位冠军设计师将分别再获得10万澳元奖金,用以进行面料采购和市场推广,此外还将接受行业专家的专业指导。获奖系列也将通过全球知名的零售商进行发售,包括Harvey Nichols(英国)、David Jones(澳洲)、Boutique 1(阿联酋)、Verso(比利时)、LECLAIREUR(法国)、Boon the Shop(韩国)、The Papillion(印度尼西亚)及网上商店mytheresa.com(女装)和MATCHESFASHION.COM(男装)。
The Woolmark Company is pleased to have the support of Wine Australia as the official drinks partner, along with TONI&GUY and makeup by MAC for the 2016/17 Asia International Woolmark Prize.
国际羊毛局(The Woolmark Company)特别鸣谢Wine Australia的支持,成为官方酒类合作伙伴。2016/17国际羊毛标志大奖同样感谢美发造型品牌TONI&GUY以及彩妆品牌M.A.C.所提供的支持。